Products

All of the products manufactured by Innovative Bowling Products carry a one year warranty from the date of purchase, except for our line of Personal Ball Spinners which carry a two year warranty from the date of purchase. The warranties of all products sold by Innovative Bowling Products that are not manufactured by us, may or may not be warranted by the original manufacturer. Any warranty claims, issues, or concerns of these products should be addressed with the product's manufacturer.

With the exception of the jig, all of our Mill/Drill Plus Packages include those components: Heavy Duty 2 HP Motor (optional power source), Heavy Duty Mill/Drill Stand, Convenient Built-In Work Lamp, 2 Axis Digital System (optional Z-Axis), Heavy Duty Keyless Chuck, Carousel Drill Rack (holds up to 41 bits, plus Plug Cutter), 41 Piece, 1/2" Straight Shank Carbide Tip Drill Bit Set1/2" and Straight Shank Plug Cutter.

The shipping weight is about 815 pounds and the size of the shipping crate is 44" x 33" x 60".

Shipping a mill attached to the stand would be very "top-heavy" and unsafe for the equipment, as well as any handlers. Therefore, we do not ship mills that are attached to the stand. It takes only 4 bolts to assemble the stand. Once the stand is assembled and in place, sit the mill on the stand and secure it with the included hardware.

The minimum working space necessary to provide sufficient working space is 4 feet side to side, 3 feet front to back, 7 feet in height. The shipping weight is 815 pounds and the size of the shipping crate is 44" x 33" x 60".

We do not ship mills to U.S. locations wired for 220 volt, unless specifically requested by the buyer, as well as the customer's assurance that the electrical aspects of the mill installation are fully understood. We recommend a dedicated 30 amp circuit as the power source for our mill/drills. The plug-in supplied with mills not having a PowerVac Jig look like plug-ins used with nearly any 110 volt pieces of electrical equipment. However, the plug-ins supplied with mills having a PowerVac Jig are much larger and to someone who does not understand this, it can be confused with the plug-ins used for 220 volt machines. The NEMA Code specifications for this type plug is NEMA Code L5-30R. This "twist-lock" plug is necessary due to the addition of the integrated control panel that powers additional equipment (shop vac and bevel sander). Make sure that your electrician is aware of the plug types when wiring your dedicated 30-amp circuit.

We must be advised by the purchaser as to the power requirements for the country of destination. International customers must be aware of the building and electrical requirements for the location of the destination. Before wiring a mill for intenational use, we must know if the machine is to be wired as 220 volts / 50 hertz, 220 volts / 60 hertz, or 110 volts / 50 hertz. We will not be held responsible for incorrect information provided us by the customer. Should there be need for power transformers for the use of any of our products, it is the buyer's responsibility to provide for the necessary electrical materials that are in complete compliance with electrical codes of the equipment's destination.

The plugs on our 110 volt mills with PowerVac jigs which include an integrated control panel require the use of "twist-lock" plugs. The plug is a L5-30P and the associated receptacle is a L5-30R.

There are three oil ports related to table movement. One near the lateral crank handle, one near the vertical crank handle and just behind the back center of the table. Add a few drops of 30 weight oil to these ports. As you add the oil, make sure that you move table to the extent of your digital readouts (do not go beyond the extent of your digitals), this will insure that all of the threads of the screws that creates the table movements are properly lubricated.

Apply a light coating of aerosol-based white lithium grease to the spindle, just – only one space above the chuck.

Apply a light coating of aerosol-based white lithium grease to the column for rust prevention.

Apply a light coating of aerosol-based white lithium grease to dovetail way of the table. Use of other oils here will cause the debris created by drilling to accumulate more easily. Aerosol based white lithium grease does not prevent the accumulation of the debris but it does reduce it as compared to regular 30 weight oil.

These are maintenance procedures only, if you are having issues that should involve trouble shooting, please call and speak with our technical support personnel.

At the customer's request, we can install Z Axis ability on the mill. We need to know this at the time the order is placed and there is a price increase associated with this option.

You can ... but you should not. Setting a slug with your quill is very tough on your mill and it can drastically affect the accuracy and useful life of your mill. If you take proper care of your mill, it should last you for your entire career and setting slugs with your quill is not taking proper care of your mill.

We recently stopped selling Bench-top Drill Presses. The demands of today's pro shop have simply grown beyond the capability of drill presses. Thumb hole sizes and plunge depths due to Interchangeable thumbs, along with the common use of plug cutters requires more torque and weight than a bench-top drill press can provide.Mills are more expensive, but they have the weight, torque, and plunge depth necessary to accommodate the demands of today's pro shop.

Using a jig with a drill press requires the addition of a mini-mill table to achieve table movements for desired pitches. Since we stopped selling drill presses, we no longer manufacture mini mill tables.

We manufacture three types of jigs: PowerVac, New Standard and Heavy Duty

There are two different methods you may use to insure that your table is set to zero/zero: using a Centering Rod or by using our Plug Cutter. When using Centering Rods, secure it in the chuck and lower it to just above the bottom of the table. Move the table left/right, forward/reverse until the centering rod is aligned to a precise spot in the ball cup. When this is accomplished the table is at zero/zero. The easier way to achieve zero/zero is by using our Plug Cutter. Chuck the plug cutter and lower to just above the top of the ball. Rotate the plug cutter to 6:00 - 9:00, lower the Plug Cutter to rest on top of the ball and check to see if both sides of the Plug Cutter is equally snugging against the ball, adjust the table to a point where this is accomplished. Rotate the Plug Cutter to 12:00 - 6:00 and repeat the process. This may take several movements but once the Plug Cutter is snug against the ball in both directions your table is at zero/zero. At this point, reset your digital readouts, as well as the dials on the tables crank handles

We do have 1/2" Straight Shanked End Mills available for special orders. Since we do not manufacture these items there is potential for a significant wait between order and delivery. Any inquiries or orders for these items will have to take place through an email or phone call because we do have them to be available in our shopping cart.

When taking "nibbles" from the side walls in the process of cutting ovals, pointed bits tend to take the path of least resistance and can slightly lean away from the cut. Flat-tipped bits are less prone to this minor amount of "drifting.”

Standard drill bits without the PBA cut have a 1-3/4" tail but for PBA Cut Bits, we remove 3/4" of the tail, leaving the chuck-able portion of the bit at 1". Because the two different cuts produce 3/4" difference in total drill bit length, older standard bits cannot be gradually phased out and replaced with PBA Cut bits. The height of the power head would need to be higher for standard cut bits and lower for PBA Cut bits. For this reason, it is best to go "all in" for PBA Cut bits or stay away from them. Our mills, when built with Litchco Pivoting Jigs are tall enough that PBA Cut drill bits are not necessary.

When Centering Rods are secured in the chuck and you lower it to the table, the bottom of the centering rod should be aligned with a precise spot in the ball cup. If not, move the table left/right, forward/reverse until the bottom of the centering rod is located in perfect alignment to the spot in the ball cup. When the Centering Rod is located in the precise alignment, the table is at true zero/zero. Once the table is set to zero/zero, reset your digital readouts and the scales on the table's crank handles.

Yes, our Carousel Drill Racks may be installed in the field

Our Measuring Balls have two thumb holes: one is used with our built in span scale (incremented to 1/16") for determining proper span, while the other one allows you to rotate the bowler's thumb to determine the proper oval angle. The rest of the balls surface contains 42 holes in 1/64" increments to help determine the proper holes sizes needed for the bowler.

MoRich Fitting Tubes are sold in pairs of two: one for large hands and one for smaller hands. By placing the bowler's middle and ring fingers on either side of the proper line on the tube's scale, the bowler will wrap his palm and thumb around the tube where another scale on the opposite side of the tube will measure the way the bowler's thumb hinges. This scale will remove double space accurately tell you the correct lateral thumb pitch for "this" bowler. These fitting tools are the best tools available to accurately determine lateral thumb pitches by properly measuring the hinge of the bowler's thumb.

Sizing Rings are also called Go/No Go Gauges. We manufacture these precisely in accordance with the rules of the USBC. If a ball will not pass through one, the ball is too big. If the ball will pass through the other, the ball is too small

In addition to the size and location of finger holes, our Spec Sheets also provide space for you to record information about your bowler's profile. With the specs and the profile information you do not need the bowler to be present when you layout and drill the ball.

The Haus Resurfacing Machine is by far the best resurfacing machine available. Primarily because of our Rigid Diamond Cutting Wheels. The process of using Rigid Cutting Wheels can actually make a ball rounder than factory specifications. Using soft cutting pads will make flat spots bigger because the pad follows the existing contours of the ball's surface. As far as a soft pad is concerned, a hole in a ball's surface is a flat spot. Rigid cutting wheels do not follow the existing contour of a ball, so they keep or make bowling balls rounder.

As soon as you notice a change in the ball's personality/performance. With some balls, this could happen in as few as 10 to 15 games. It all depends on the lane conditions that you bowl on and the absorptive properties of the ball's cover-stock. When you need it, you will see it in the ball's performance and your scores. Urethane and plastic balls do not absorb oil.

We have been manufacturing Bowling Ball Revivors for more than 20 years. Our Single Ball Revivors and 2 Ball Revivors work on the same principles of circulating warm air around the ball which pulls absorbed lane oil to the ball’s surface where it can be wiped away with a towel and good ball cleaner. The temperatures at which these units operate are temperatures that we know to be safe for the ball and effective for bringing lane oil to the surface. A one hour period, in either of our Revivors will bring a ball back to very near its out-of-the-box performance

Getting a ball too hot is certainly not healthy for it. But when using our Revivors and in accordance with our recommendations, they will not cause any harm to a ball. The air is only warm enough to pull absorbed lane oil to the surface of the ball and does not affect the ball's internal temperature. Only the outer most surface of the ball is warmed during our process. Through the years various competitors have stated that our Revivors are not the best process for removing lane oil from cover-stocks. That statement is not and has never been true. In the early days, Brunswick performed a scientific study of our process and their research proved this isn’t true. A copy of that study is available upon request. Any bowling ball that has spent a few hours in the trunk of a car, during a hot summer’s day has been exposed to much greater risk than a short visit in one or our Revivors.

Not all balls absorb equal amounts of oil, they will not "sweat" out as much oil as those that do absorb a lot of lane oil. Also, if you routinely use a good ball cleaner and clean your ball before you put it away, it will not "sweat" as much as balls without good cleaning routines. If the Revivor doesn't pull a visible amount of oil out of the cover-stock, there wasn't any in there. Polyester balls and urethane balls do not absorb lane oils

Both of our Personal Ball Spinners (1/3 HP & 1/2 HP) spin at 475 RPMs. Our Professional model single speed ball spinners spin at 545 RPMs. Our Professional model 2-speed ball spinners spin at 400 RPMs on the low side and 600 RPMs on the high side. The low side operates at 1/3 HP, while the high side operates at 1 HP.

Our 1/3 hp and 1/2 hp units have the same footprint of 17-9/16" long and 9-1/2" deep. The unit height varies between motors: the 1/3 hp is 11" tall and the 1/2 hp is 11-1/2" tall (not including a bowling ball). With a Flower Pot installed both the 1/3hp and 1/2hp would be 15" tall.

Depending upon whether we are shipping a 1/3 HP or 1/2 HP Personal Ball Spinner, the shipping weights are between 30 - 35 pounds.

The low side of a 2-speed spinner is used to alter the surface (abralon/sandpaper) because it will cut faster at a slower speed. The high side of a 2-speed spinner is used to apply polishes because it polishes faster at a high speed. Both of these processes can take place on a single-speed unit, it just takes a little longer to complete the processes.

We developed our 5" Sanding Block or Contoured Abrasive Block (CAB) to prevent operators from applying too much pressure on a small portion of the ball. Inexperienced operators with unskilled hands can very quickly "cut" a flat spot on the ball. But when using our sanding block, rather than working a very small portion of the ball, our block will cause the operator to apply pressure equally across a 5" diameter potion of the ball's surface which greatly reduces the opportunities for the creation of flat spots

The Flower Pot Splash Guard is 15-3/8" OD at the widest point. The ID of the splash guard at its widest point is 14-1/8". The height is 12-1/2". Installing the unit wll add a little to the length and depth.