FAQs: Products

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Product Warranties

All of the products manufactured by Innovative Bowling Products carry a one year warranty from the date of purchase, except for our line of Personal Ball Spinners which carry a two year warranty from the date of purchase. The warranties of all products sold by Innovative Bowling Products that are not manufactured by us, may or may not be warranted by the original manufacturer. Any warranty claims, issues, or concerns of these products should be addressed with the product's manufacturer.

Innovative/Vise Beyond Complete Packages

Innovative and Vise have teamed up to offer the most complete pro shop packages ever assembled. This packages are built around our Mill/Drill Plus Packages and provide every hand tool, piece of equipment, inserts, slugs, bag and accessories inventory needed to open a fully prepared and functional pro shop. The type of ball jig is optional with choices between our patented Dual Chamber PowerVac Jig, New Standard Jig, Heavy Duty Jig, or Litchco Pivioting Jig, as well as 110 volt 60 Hertz or 220 volt 50 Hertz power options. One free tuition for an upcoming Pro Shop Training Class is included with purchase. For a complete listing of items included in this package, see the product description in our shopping cart.

When we assembled these packages, we did so using the maximum allowable discounts. As a result, the entire package is a single product with a single SKU. Removing items does not reduce the cost of these packages. In the case of wanting to remove items to reduce the cost, we will need to start from the beginning and build the desired package in and ala' carte fashion.

Innovative Pro Shop Packages

Yes, they do. The difference between the Innovative Pro Shop Packages and the Innovative / Vise Beyond Complete Packages is that the Innovative Package contains only the power and hand-tools needed to fit and drill bowling balls. The Beyond Complete Packages have a large number of retail items that you will sell for a profit.

The style of jig you get in this package is your option. You choose between a PowerVac or a New Standard Jig. All of the hand tools and fitting tools are the same regardless of the jig you prefer.

Mill/Drill Plus Packages

With the exception of the jig, all of our Mill/Drill Plus Packages include the components: Heavy Duty 2 HP Motor (optional power source), Heavy Duty Mill/Drill Stand, Convenient Built-In Work Lamp, 2 Axis Digital System (optional Z-Axis), Heavy Duty Keyless Chuck, Carousel Drill Rack (holds up to 41 bits, plus Plug Cutter), 41 Piece, 1/2" Straight Shank Carbide Tip Drill Bit Set1/2" and Straight Shank Plug Cutter.

The shipping weight is about 815 pounds and the size of the shipping crate is 44" x 33" x 60".

Shipping a mill attached to the stand would be very "top-heavy" and unsafe for the equipment, as well as any handlers. Therefore we do not ship mills that are attached to the stand. It takes only 4 bolts to assemble the stand. Once the stand is assembled and in place, sit the mill on the stand and secure it with the included hardware.

The minimum working space necessary to provide sufficient working space is 4 feet side to side, 3 feet front to back, 7 feet in height. The shipping weight is 815 pounds and the size of the shipping crate is 44" x 33" x 60".

We do not ship mills to U.S. locations wired for 220 volt, unless specifically requested by the buyer, as well as the customer's assurance that the electrical aspects of the mill installation are fully understood. We recommend a dedicated 30 amp circuit as the power source for our mill/drills. The plug-in supplied with mills not having a PowerVac Jig looks like plug-ins used with nearly any 110 volt pieces of electrical equipment. However, the plug-ins supplied with mills having a PowerVac Jig are much larger and to someone who does not understand this, it can be confused with the plug-ins used for 220 volt machines. The NEMA Code specifications for this type plug is NEMA Code L5-30R. This "twist-lock" plug is necessary due to the addition of the integrated control panel that powers additional equipment (shop vac and bevel sander). Make sure that you electrician is aware of the plug types when wiring your dedicated 30 amp circuit.

We must be advised by the purchaser as to the power requirements for the country of destination. International customers must be aware of the building and electrical requirements of the location of the final destination. Before wiring a mill for intenational use, we must know if the machine is to be wired as 220 volts / 50 hertz, 220 volts / 60 hertz, or 110 volts / 50 hertz. We will not be held responsible for incorrect information provided us by the customer. We always recommend dedicated 30 AMP circuits for the use of our mills. Should there be need for power transformers for the use of any of our products, it is the buyer's responsibility to provide for the necessary electrical materials that are in complete compliance with electrical codes of the equipment's destination.

The plugs on our 110 volt mills with PowerVac jigs which include an integrated control panel require the use of "twist-lock" plugs. The plug is a L5-30P and the associated receptacle is a L5-30R.

There are three oil ports related to table movement. One near the lateral crank handle, one near the vertical crank handle and just behind the back center of the table. Add a few drops of 30 weight oil to these ports. As you add the oil, make sure that you move table to the extent of your digital readouts (do not go beyond the extent of your digitals), this will insure that all of the threads of the "screw" that creates the table movement are properly lubricated.

Apply a light coating of aerosol based white lithium grease to the spindle,  just above the chuck.

Apply a light coating of aerosol based white lithium grease to the column for rust prevention.

Apply a light coating of aerosol based white lithium grease dovetail way of the table. Use of other oils here will cause the debris created by drilling to accumulate more easily. Aerosol based white lithium grease does not prevent the accumulation of the debris but it does reduce it as compared to regular 30 weight oil.

These are maintenance procedures only, if you are having issue that should involve trouble shooting, please call and speak with our technical support personnel.

At the customer's request, we can install Z Axis ability on the mill. We need to know this at the time the order is placed and there is a price increase associated with this option.

You can ... but you shouldn't. Setting a slug with your quill is very tough on your mill and it can drastically affect the accuracy and useful life of your mill. If you take proper care of your mill, it should last you for your entire career and setting slugs with your quill is not taking proper care of your mill.

Bench-top Drill Presses

We recently stopped selling Bench-top Drill Presses. The demands of today's pro shop have simply grown beyond the capability of drill presses. Thumb hole sizes and plunge depths due to Interchangeable thumbs, along with the common use of plug cutters requires more torque and weight than a bench-top drill press can provide. Customers who bought bench-top drill presses from us very quickly became unhappy customers and we determined that creating unhappy customers was not in the best interests of the customer, nor was it in the best interest of Innovative. Quite frankly, we would rather lose business by being honest and straightforward with our customers than to get it, knowing all the while that the customer would soon become unhappy with us. Mills are more expensive but they have the weight, torque, and plunge depth necessary to accommodate the demands of today's pro shop.

We do sell our New Standard Jigs and Heavy Duty Jigs independent of mills. For drill press installations, the jig is mounted on a "mini-mill" table which allows you to dial in your desired lateral and vertical pitches.

Ball Jigs

We manufacture 3 types of jigs: PowerVac, New Standard and Heavy Duty. We also offer Lichco Pivoting Jigs but we do not manufacture them.

The PowerVac Jig is our most popular jig and we believe it is the finest jig available. The ball is secured by vacuum pressure in our "patented" dual chamber ball cup. The dual chamber gives the jig two separate areas of the ball to secure the necessary vacuum pressure to safely secure the ball. This is very important if the ball has deep engraving or "flat" spots. Only balls in the worst possible condition "may" have to be secured manually with the provided top plate. Once the cut lines on the ball are properly aligned, it takes only the flip of a switch to secure the ball for drilling. The ball stays right where it is when the vacuum, pressure is applied. There are no moving parts and no vibration. If properly maintained this setup should last for the career of the buyer and beyond.

Unlike 3-point jigs, our New Standard Jig secures the ball from the top down. Once the cut lines are properly orientated, simply place the top plate over the ball and pull forward on a cam-action locking lever on each side of the ball. Securing the ball from the top down does not laterally move your cut lines as the ball is secured which is a problem with 3-point jigs.

Yes, we do offer Pivoting Jigs but we do not manufacture them. Litchco Pivoting Jigs are still manufactured by the jigs inventor. These are the jigs used by the PBA. Once the ball is secured in pivoting jigs, the ball is never moved until drilling is complete. Adjustments for cut lines are made by rotating or "pivoting" the entire jig which insures that all of the finger holes are drilled on precisely the same pitch plane. However, with the advent of thumbs slugs and CLTs, this precision has been greatly diminished because you should un-jig the ball to set slugs which defeats the precision of all holes being drilled on precisely the same pitch place. The very concept of CLT requires the ball be reset in the jig to create a different pitch plane for the fingers as compared to the thumb.

Our Heavy Duty, 3-Point Jig has been the work-horse for ball drilling jigs for many years. As far as mechanically securing jigs, it was the very best until we came up with the New Standard Jig. Old habits sometimes die slowly and many "seasoned" ball drillers prefer the 3-point style jig over newer concepts. This a heavy and strong unit with not much that can go wrong as it ages.

Drill presses require that the jig be attached to a "mini-mill" table so that you can set your desired pitches. Since we are no longer selling bench-top drill presses, we no longer produce Mini-Mill tables.

Pivoting Jigs have been around for quite some time and are still used by the PBA. The theory behind pivoting jigs is that once the ball is secured in the jig and it is never moved or re-jigged, that each of the finger and thumb holes are in precisely the same pitch plane. The advent of thumbs slugs and CLTs have greatly reduced the advantages of pivoting jigs. When a ball is un-jigged and re-jigged, the pitch plane is no longer precise. You can make it very close but that, to a large degree, negates the theory of this style jig's precision. On the other hand, CLTs dictate that the thumb is drilled on a totally different pitch plane. 

You should never use the quill to press in a thumb slug. This practice is very hard on your mill. It is far better for the life and precision of the mill to remove the ball to your bench and use your mallet to set the slug.

There are two different methods you may use to insure that your table is set to zero/zero: using a Centering Rod or by using our Plug Cutter. When using Centering Rods, secure it in the chuck and you lower it to just above the bottom of the table. Move the table left/right, forward/reverse until the centering rod is aligned to a precise spot in the ball cup. When this is accomplished the table is at zero/zero. The easier way to achieve zero/zero is by using our Plug Cutter. Chuck the plug cutter and lower to just above the top of the ball. Rotate the plug cutter to 6:00 - 9:00, lower the Plug Cutter to rest on top of the ball and check to see if both sides of the Plug Cutter is equally snugging against the ball, adjust the table to a point where this is accomplished. Rotate the Plug Cutter to 12:00 - 6:00 and repeat the process. This may take several movements but once the Plug Cutter is snug against the ball in both directions your table is at zero/zero. At this point, reset your digital readouts, as well as the dials on the tables crank handles.  

Drill Bits

Our 17 piece drill bit sets contain one bit in each of the following sizes: 5/8", 21/32", 11/16", 23/32", 3/4", 29/32", 13/16", 27/32", 7/8", 29/32", 15/16", 31/32", 1", 1-1/32", 1-1/16", 1-/32" and 1-1/8".

Our 24 piece drill bit sets contain one bit in each of the following sizes: 1/2", 9/16", 19/32", 5/8", 21/32", 11/16", 23/32", 3/4", 29/32", 13/16", 27/32", 7/8", 29/32", 15/16", 61/64", 31/32", 63/64", 1", 1-1/64", 1-1/32", 1-1/16", 1-3/32", 1-1/8" & 1-1/4".

Our 41 piece drill bit sets contain one bit in each of the following sizes: 1/2", 17/32", 9/16", 37/64", 19/32", 39/64", 5/8", 41/64", 21/32", 43/64", 11/16", 45/64", 23/32", 47/64", 3/4", 49/64", 29/32", 51/64", 13/16", 53/64", 27/32", 55/64", 7/8", 57/64", 29/32", 59/64" 15/16", 61/64", 31/32", 63/64", 1", 1-1/64", 1-1/32", 1-3/64", 1-1/16", 1-5/64", 1-3/32", 1-7/64", 1-1/8", 1-1/4" & 1-3/8".

Our 51 piece drill bit sets contains one bit in every size that we make: 1/2", 33/64", 17/32", 35/64", 9/16", 37/64", 19/32", 39/64", 5/8", 41/64", 21/32", 43/64", 11/16", 45/64", 23/32", 47/64", 3/4", 49/64", 29/32", 51/64", 13/16", 53/64", 27/32", 55/64", 7/8", 57/64", 29/32",  59/64" 15/16", 61/64", 31/32", 63/64", 1", 1-1/64", 1-1/32", 1-3/64", 1-1/16", 1-5/64", 1-1/32", 1-7/64", 1-1/8", 1-9/64", 1-5/32", 1-11/64", 1-3/16", 1-3/64", 1-7/32", 1-15/64", 1-1/4", 1-3/8" & 1-1/2".

The demand for this style drill bit is not as it used to be, so we no longer inventory them. We do offer these as special orders but the manufacturing queue can sometimes create a long period of time before they are produced. We can make them in any of the 51 sizes that we make for our line of 1/2" Straight Shank Bits. All inquiries or orders of #2 taper bits will have to take place through an email or phone call because we no longer have them available in our shopping cart.

We do have 1/2" Straight Shanked End Mills available for special orders. Since we do not manufacture these items there is potential for a significant wait between order and delivery. Any inquiries or orders of these items will have to take place through an email or phone call because we do have them to be available in our shopping cart.

Many pro shops prefer flat-tipped drill bits for milling ovals. When taking "nibbles" off the side walls in the process of cutting ovals, pointed bits tend to take the path of least resistance and lean away from the cut. Flat-tipped bits are less prone to this "difting" when taking smaller cuts associated with ovals.

The PBA Cut for drill bits was originally developed for use with the Litchco Pivoting Jigs that are used in the PBA Tour Trailer. The Litchco Jig is slightly taller than other ball jigs, so the length of non-PBA cut bits make it a little more difficult and slower when changing bits. Standard drill bits without the PBA cut have a 1-3/4" tail but for PBA Cut Bits, we remove 3/4" of the tail, leaving the chuck-able portion of the bit at 1". There are benefits other than only using with a Litchco Pivoting Jig however, when using the PBA cut with non-pivoting jigs the bit bottoms out against the under-side of the chuck which creates a larger base to be securely tightened against the chuck. This helps in reducing bit "drift" and "wobble." The shorter length also makes chucking the bit easier and faster because there is much less chance of scratching a ball during bit changes. Because the two different cuts produce 3/4" difference in total drill bit length, older standard bits cannot be gradually phased out and replaced with PBA Cut bits. The height of the power head would need to be higher for standard cut bits and lower for PBA Cut bits. For this reason it is best to go "all in" for PBA Cut bits or stay away from them. Our mills when built with Litchco Pivoting Jigs are actually tall enough that PBA Cut drill bits are not necessary.

All carbide used for bowling ball drill bits is not of equal quality. When we are sharpening customer's drill bits, you can easily hear the difference in the sounds produced from our drill bits as compared to the drill bits of others. The cutting portion of our drill bits are made from the highest possible quality of carbide.

Every year we take hundreds of dull bits and turn them into very sharp drill bits. We sharpen both 1/2" Straight Shank bits and #2 Morse Tapers. Knowing how important drill bits are to a pro shop, we make every possible effort to sharpen them and return them inside of two business days. You have to remember that very sharp bits behave differently that dull ones, so "don't plunge to quickly, especially in polyester balls. It is a completely different "feel" than drilling with a dull bits and a lot less expensive than replacing old bits for new ones.

It is possible for us to size existing drill bits down to the next 1/64" smaller. It is possible to size them down a little more than 1/64" but there are variables involved such as the bit's body size and how much shank size there is to the finished cutting edge size. Once we see the bit, we will determine how much we can reduce its cutting size.

Drilling Accessories

All of our mill/drills come with this stand. If you have an existing mill or bench-top drill press that you want to put a base under, our bases can be adapted to it. There are two pre-drilled hole patterns or you can drill your own holes if these patterns do not align with your drilling machine. The existing hole patterns are 18-1/2" x 12-3/4" and 16" x 10-1/4" (the longest lengths are front to back).

All of the tables on our mills are ready to accept the installation of these clamp-downs. A long bolt is "screwed" on either side of the ball cup allowing the top plate to sit on top of the ball. Once the wing nuts are tightened to the top side of the top-plate, the ball is secured for drilling. All of our new mills come with this top plate. It is rarely necessary for use with our PowerVac jig except when working with balls having deep scratches or flat spots. Working with balls having such defects may prevent the vacuum pump from reaching a safe pressure which will then require the use of this top plate.

When Centering Rods are secured in the chuck and you lower it to the table, the bottom of the centering rod should be aligned with a precise spot in the ball cup. If not, you move the table left/right, forward/reverse until the bottom of the centering rod is located in perfect alignment to the spot in the ball cup. When the Centering Rod is located in the precise alignment, the table is at true zero/zero. However, there is a faster way to insure that your table is at zero/zero and that is by using Plug Cutter. Once the table is set to zero/zero, reset your digital readouts and the scales on the table's crank handles.

Yes, our Carousel Drill Racks can be installed in the field but you may have to remove your jig and table. You may also need to drill a hole in your table to accommodate the mounting assembly.

Using Foot switches to power you mill on and off is purely a personal preference. You mills power cord is plugged into the Foot Switch and the Foot Switches power cord is plugged into the wall outlet. If this is for a PowerVac Jig you will need to unplug the mills power cord only, from the back of the integrated control panel, leaving all of the other plugs in place. Once this is properly installed you will leave your mills power switch in the "on" position, so when you press the Foot Switch to the "on" position the mill is powered.

We offer two different options in the way of Keyless Chucks having R8 adapters. One is of superior American made quality (this the one that is standard for all of our mill/drills) and for the budget minded we offer a less expensive, imported model. 

Hand Tools

The Pro Sect Quarter Scale has been the bowling industry's standard for many years. They are durable, easy operate and easy to understand. Since no other similar device compares to it, this is the only quarter scale that we offer.

An Armadillo is the best tool for finding a bowler's Positive Axis Point.

We carry Bevel Knives in two varieties: our Red Handled Bevel knife and a Deluxe Bevel Knife which has a replaceable cutting blade. Our Red Handled Bevel is made by us, has three flat sides and tapers to the end to form a point. It is fairly easy to sharpen yourself by using a file. Our Red handled Bevel Knife is one of the tools in our 5 Piece Red Handled Tool Sets.

We manufacture our Insert Removers in three different sizes: 7/8", 31/64" and 1-1/32". They can be bought individually, a set of all three. The 31/32" Insert Remover is one of the tools in our 5 Piece Red Handled Tool Set.

Our Red Handled Scraping Tool includes two cutting wheels (one each in 5/8" and 7/8"). Replacement cutting wheels can be purchased as needed. Our Red Handled Sanding Tool is available in three different diameters (1/2", 5/8" and 3/4") and comes with three sanding sleeves. Replacement Sanding Sleeves can be purchased as needed. We also make a Red Handled Rasp. Each of these tools can be bought individually or as part of our Red Handled Tool Sets.

Our 5 Piece Red Handled Tools Sets come with one each of the following hand tools: Bevel Knife, 31/32" Insert Remover, Scraping tool (with one each 5/8" & 7/8" cutting discs & 1 allen wrench), Rasp (1/2" diameter) and Sanding Tool (1/2" diameter with 3 sanding sleeves).

Measuring & Fitting Tools

Our Measuring Balls have two thumb holes: one is used with our built in span scale (incremented to 1/16") for determining proper span, while the other one allows you to rotate the bowler's thumb to determine the proper oval angle. The rest of the balls surface contains 42 holes in 1/64" increments to help determine the proper holes sizes needed for the bowler.

The Bill Taylor Fitting Ring (Bt Fitter) is molded plastic that is the same diameter of bowling balls. When the bowler's thumb is placed in the thumb hole you lay the fingers along the top of the device which is scaled to read the proper finger span. Inside the ring are finger holes to help you determine the proper hole size.

MoRich Fitting Tubes are sold in pairs of two: one for large hands and one for smaller hands. By placing the bowler's middle and ring fingers on either side of the proper line on the tube's scale, the bowler will wrap his palm and thumb around the tube where another scale on the opposite side of the tube which will measure the way the bowler's thumb hinges. This scale will  accurately tell you the correct lateral thumb pitch for "this" bowler. These fitting tools are the best tools available to accurately determine lateral thumb pitches by accurately measuring the hinge of the bowler's thumb.

We offer Jonell Span Guages, Ace Mitchell Span Gauges and metal Rules with a stud that slips into a hole. The stud that goes into the hole is available in three different lengths in Jonell Span Gauges: 1", 1-1/2" & 2-1/8". 

We offer Jonell Pitch Gauges, Ace Mitchell Classic Pitch Gauges. Jonell's come in a kit of two: one for small finger holes and one for large finger holes. We also have an extra large Jonell Pitch Gauge available for 1-1/2" holes. The Ace Mitchell Tru-Pitch Kit comes with 21 different inserts.

We offer two versions of External Calipers and one type of Internal Calipers. External Calipers can read both external and internal measurements, while the Internal Calipers read only the internal measurements. When reading internal measurements, it is easier and probably more accurate with Internal Calipers.

Sizing Rings are also called Go/No Go Gauges. We manufacture these precisely in accordance with the rules of the USBC. If a ball will not pass through one, the ball is too big. If the ball will pass through the other, the ball is too small. The ball needs to pass though the larger one but not through the smaller to be within the USBC's standards.

In addition to the size and location of finger holes, our Spec Sheets also provide space for you to record information about your bowler's profile. With the specs and the profiles information you do not need the bowler to be present when you layout and drill the ball.

Haus Resurfacing Machines

The Haus Machine was first introduced more than 20 years ago. In fact, the instructional video supplied at the time of purchase was in VHS format.

The Haus Resurfacing Machine is by far the best resurfacing machine available, primarily because we have filed for protecting of this feature through U.S. Copyrights. This patent means that no other resurfacing machine manufacturer can apply this feature to their designs. The process of using Rigid Diamond Cutting Wheels can actually make a ball rounder than factory specifications. Using anything other than Rigid Diamond Cutting Wheels, will make flat spots bigger because the pad follows the existing contours on the ball's surface. As far as a soft pad is concerned, a hole in a ball's surface is a flat spot. Soft pads actually make all flat spots bigger. Rigid cutting wheels do not follow the existing contour of a ball, so they just make balls rounder.

Our Spider Assembly is another feature of the Haus Resurfacing Machine we have protected under U.S. Copyrights. The reason this feature is so important is because when the Spider Assembly is lowered, the ball rests on each of the cutting wheels or finishing pads equally. Each of the the cutting wheels and/or finishing pads are in full and equal contact with the ball. With this method gravity is our friend.  Without this assembly, one motor (pad) pushes the ball against the other two motores (pads) which causes the ball to ride high on the other two pads. Only the upper half of the rotating pads come in contact with the ball. Since other manufacturer's cannot utilize ridig cuttung wheels, none of the pads used in the entire process can achieve full and equal use of the cutting pads. This requires much more time in the machine and does not promote full use because in this case gravity is not your friend.

We know it is rare when the best product on the market cost less than competitive products but that is the case with our Haus Resurfacing Machine. We want to make a fair profit and nothing more. The price of the Haus Machine is not the reason that you do not have one!

The new generations of our Haus Resurfacing Machines fixed every weakness in the earlier machines. We replace the "oscillating" motor with a "reversing" controller (motor) that completely insures a random action in the ball. The oscillating se motors were weak, somewhat expensive and did not have a long useful life. Anytime, you would see a ball spin on the same axis, the oscillating more was worn out. We also removed that short, soft waste pan and replaced it with higher, rigid side walls which helped to keep you and your work area much cleaner. In addition, we changed the shape from hexagonal to rectangular and increased the inside diameter of the waste tubes to avoid them from clogging.

The short answer to your question is: no. When we bought the Haus Resurfacing Machine from Haus Specialty Manufacturing they had already depreciated the First Generation Machines which means they stopped the production of parts that were specific to that machine. We bought the few remaining replacement parts when we bought the product and we have long since depleted those parts.

Most of the parts are not interchangeable between Fist Generation Machines and Next Generation Machines. However, the following parts are interchangeable between the two machines: Diamond Cutting Wheels, Daisy/Finishing Wheels (as long as you are not using the wipers), Springs, Bearings, Timer, Loc-Line Set, Waste Hose, Water Supply Hose and Drive Pins.

This depends upon which motors and gear boxes were used at the time your particular machine was produced. Through the years we have used a couple of different motors and gear box combinations. All three motors and all three gear must be identical. To answer this question will require a call to our tech support staff, so they may learn what motor and gear box your machine has.

Oil Extraction Devices

Our Revivors have been in use since 2000.

Today's reactive bowling balls absorb lane oil (some more than others). The absorptive properties of cover-stocks are actually part of the science behind the ball's design. Once the track area of the ball has become saturated with lane oil the ball's personality can drastically change. A single hour in our Revivor will bring the back to very near it's out-of-the-box condition. 

As soon as you notice a change in the ball's personality/performance. With some balls, this could happen in as few as 10 to 15 games. It all depends on the lane conditions that you bowl on and the absorptive properties of the ball's cover-stock. When you need it, you will see it in the ball's performance and your scores. Urethane and plastic balls do not absorb oil.

The 2 Ball Revivor can remove oil from one or two balls at the same time. It uses warm air that is gently circulated around the ball, as it turns over sorbent pads that remove lane oil as it comes to the ball's surface. There are adjustments for the temperature, as well as a timer.

Getting a ball hot can hurt it but warming a ball enough to pull the oil to the surface will not. All bowling ball cover-stocks are made from some type of plastic, whether polyester, urethane or reactive urethanes. Inside the cover is a lighter (less dense) type of plastic and below that is a heavier (more dense) plastic that is called the core. Since the cover, filler material and core are all different densities of plastic, they each can contract and expand at different temperatures. Our vast experiences have taught us that the temperature of the heated air should be close to 135 degrees Fahrenheit and for periods of no more than two hours. This is warm enough to pull the oil to the surface without affecting the ball's temperature just below the outer most surface of the ball and that's where the oil is. Years after we developed the Revivor, a product was developed that was supposed to extract oil through a "cool" process and about that time a very inaccurate claim that in addition to lane oil, our Revivors also pulled plasticizers from the cover-stock. This is not and has never been true. Brunswick even performed a scientific study that proved this wasn't true. Any bowling ball that has spent a few hours in the truck of a car, during summer has been exposed to a much greater risk than a "ride" in our Revivor.

Not all balls absorb equal amounts of oil, they will not "sweat" out as much oil as those that do absorb a lot of lane oil. Also, if you routinely use a good ball cleaner and clean your ball before you put it away, it will not "sweat" as much as balls without good cleaning routines. If the Revivor doesn't pull a visible amount of oil out of the cover-stock, there wasn't any in there. Polyester balls and urethane balls do not absorb lane oils.

Depending upon the saturaration rate of the ball's Revived, the Sorben Pads should last for 8 to 19 balls. Considering the cost of replacement pads, your consumable costs for pads is around a dime each.

Personal Revivors work with the same warm air processes as do our 2 Ball Revivors but that is where the similarities stop. Rather than a cabinet, the ball sits in a bucket with the lid providing all of the electrical components. All of the automation has been removed to reduce the price and make them affordable for the individual bowler who wishes to maintain the surface on their own equipment. Place the ball in the unit, warm the ball for 15 to 20 minutes, out take it and wipe it down then "flip" and return the ball to the unit for another 15 to 20 minutes. The result is the same as the pro version but the way to get there is different.

Ball Spinners

Both of our Personal Ball Spinners (1/3 HP & 1/2 HP) spin at 475 RPMs. Our Professional model single speed ball spinners spin at 545 RPMs. Our Professional model 2-speed ball spinners spin at 400 RPMs on the low side and 600 RPMs on the high side. The low side operates at 1/3 HP, while the high side operates at 1 HP.

Our 1/3 hp and 1/2 hp units have the same foot print of 17-9/16" long and 9-1/2" deep. The unit height varies between motors: the 1/3 hp is 11" tall and the 1/2 hp is 11-1/2" tall (not including a bowling ball). With a Flower Pot installed both the 1/3hp and 1/2hp would be 15" tall.

Depending upon whether we are shipping a 1/3 HP or 1/2 HP Personal Ball Spinner, the shipping weights are between 30 - 35 poinds.

The low side of a 2 speed spinner is used to alter the surface (abralon/sandpaper) because it will cut faster at a slower speed. The high side of a 2 speed spinner is used to apply polishes because it polishes faster at a high speed. Both of these processer can take place on a single speed unit, it just takes a little longer to complete the processes.

We designed and developed our Personal Line of ball spinners and revivors for individual bowlers who wish to maintain the surfaces of their own equipment. These units are all single speed and available in 110 volt / 60 hertz and 220 volt / 50 hertz units and in either 1/3 HP and 1/2 HP. In addition to individual bowlers, many smaller, low volume pros shops have bought them as well. Any individual bowler who understands his/her bowling balls well enough to apply surface adjustments will greatly improve their level of play.

We developed our 5" Sanding Block or Contoured Abrasive Block (CAB) to prevent operators from applying too much pressure on a small portion of the ball. Inexperienced operators with unskilled hands can very quickly "cut" a flat spot on the ball. But when using our sanding block, rather than working a very small portion of the ball, using our sanding block will cause the operator to apply pressure equally across a 5" diameter potion of the ball's surface which greatly reduces the opportunities for the creation of flat spots.

The Flower Pot Splash Guard is 15-3/8" OD at the widest point. The ID of the splash guard at its widest point is 14-1/8". The height is 12-1/2". Installing the unit wll add a little to the length and depth.

The Flower Pot Splash Guard is an attachment for our personal line of ball spinners. It was made to nicely "clip" around the base of the spinner to greatly limit the splatter from working a surface of a ball does not fly all over It will also fit on a professional line ball spinner but clips must be added to the base of the professional spinner's base plate. The height of the flower pot is just above the equator of the ball, allowing the operator to easily work on the ball.

We do not make ball spinners for Candlepin balls.

We do not make ball spinners for any Duckpin balls.

Finishing Pads

Abralon Polishing Pads "cut" the ball's surface faster while SiaAir Finishing Pads "cut" the ball's surface a little slower, while SiaAir Pads "cut" the ball's a little slower. The abrasive qualities of Abralon don't quite last as long as the abrasive qualities for SiaAir. It is very difficult to actually measure these differences because the time differences are only a few seconds here or there and the useful life differences is only a ball or two. The both do the job, so it is only a matter of personal preference. 

The types of pads that people use for surface adjustments are purely based upon personal preferences. Wet/dry sandpaper in the proper grits will do the job, as will Non-woven Abrasive Pads, Abralon and SiaAir Pads. Today, Abralon is by far the most commonly used product used for surface adjustments.

Ball Plugging

The d-scale reading of epoxy is between 80 - 90, while the d-scale of urethane is about the same a the ball's cover-stock which is about 75. Epoxy ball plug is generally water clear and takes between 6 to 24 hours to fully cure and become machinable. Epoxy is usually a 3:1 mixing ratio and bonds very well to the ball. Since it is clear, it is very easy to influence the color using a "tinting" or a "dye." Since epoxy plug is harder and not as porous as the ball, it takes polish differently and even with an excellent color match, the plugged holes are easy to see. Especially, after polishing.  The plugging process can take up to 3 days if plugging fingers, thumb and balance hole.

Urethane plugging material has a lot more "solids" in it and generally cures to an "off-white" color. Urethane can be produced that cures to water clear but that product would be so expensive that we couldn't afford to use it pro shops. This type of plugging material is generally a 1:1 ratio and is machinable in an hour or less. Most urethanes will bond very well to anything but itself (it will stick but it isn't really bonded). Since it has more solids than epoxy, influencing the color requires color pigment rather than tinting or dyes. There is a brief learning curve to achieve color match perfection (but it is worth it). In the case of CS Hybrid Ball Plug which is virtually the same material from which performance balls are made, it takes polish just as the ball does, so on good color matches the plug is very hard to see.  What used to take 3 days when using epoxy, takes less than 1-1/2 hours with urethane plug. ... Plug the fingers, wait 10 minutes, plug the thumb and start drilling in an hour ... 

The gel time with urethanes are very fast, usually about 1-1/2 minutes. If you "whip" the plug rather than simply mixing it, you will put a lot of air bubbles in the plug and with the fast gel time, the bubbles will not have enough time to rise to the top of the plug. If you see pits in the plug after you cut the plug down, air bubbles were trapped in the gel. A pit is nothing more than a bubble that was cut in half by the plug cutter. The trick is to not create a lot of air bubbles when mixing. Mix "A" and "B" together by stirring in figure 8 motions and mixing in the inside of the cups. Once you feel the mixing cup begin to warm, it is time to pour.

Urethane ball plugs and moisture will never be "friends." If you have ever seen urethane rise up out of the ball as a foamy volcano of sorts, the material has been compromised with moisture. Once this happens all you can do is pitch it and replace it. (See the question about the packaging CS Hybrid).

Most pro shops that use urethane ball plug still keep some epoxy plug around for plugging plastics. If you make your chips or "ice cubes" out of the epoxy material you can use these chips in your urethane pours which works just fine. However, since urethane does not bond well to itself, you should not use urethane chips to top off the hole of a urethane pour.

Earlier urethane ball plugs were packages in 2 gallon kits (one gallon of "A" and one gallon of "B"). Pumps were supplied that measured one ounce of material per pump. With 1:1 ratios, measuring wasn't needed beyond a pump of "A" and a pump of "B". The down-stroke of the pump dispensed the plug and the upstroke brought in ambient air. Ambient air has humidity (moisture); consequentially, the upstroke is what introduces moisture into the material. Once the balance of the material was upset by having too much moisture in it, the remainder of the gallon jug was trash. Also, the "self-life-meter" starts ticking when the cap is removed. Smaller volume pro shops found it difficult to use the entire 2 gallon kit before the shelf life expired.

With the above information in mind, we package CS Hybrid in 2 gallon kits, except there is 4 quarts of "A" and 4 quarts of "B". This is good for two reasons: 1) the shelf-life-meter doesn't start ticking on the other bottles when you take the cap off the first bottle. This makes urethane plug affordable for smaller volume pro shops and 2) if moisture penetrates one bottle it does not compromise the other quart bottles. Also, we eliminated the pumps which is the primary source of moisture penetration and replaced them with Yorker tops.

No, this is a myth. Urethane plug does heat up during the initial stages of the cure but it stays hot for only a few minutes which is not enough time for the heat to dissipate through the ball and cause it any harm.

This can only happen if the cover-stock of the ball is saturated with lane oil. Just as the heat from our Revivor pulls oil toward the heat, the heat of the curing plug pulls oil towards it. When this happens, only the very outer most portion of the plug, nearest the very top of the ball's surface) attracts the lane oil which disallows proper adhesion of the plug to the oil. The tell-tell sign of this is when you apply polish the ball, some polish fills this shallow void and can't be buffed out on the spinner, you end up with a white "bullseye" around the plug. Any ball that is saturated with lane oil should go through the Revivor before plugging. which will completely eliminate this possibility.  

Epoxies can take several hours to fully cure. The heat produced by the curing process of epoxies can be disseminated beyond the drilled hole which could potentially cause some harm causing the material to contract or expand.

The heat produced during the cure of CS Hybrid ball plug lasts for a very short period of time which is not long enough to cause any damage to the ball. (Just to see what would happen, we once plugged a whole that was so large that it took an entire beer cup full of plug to fill the hole. After cutting the massive plug down, there was no visible evidence of any damage to the ball. (We don't recommend this but it worked for us).  

Hole Finishing

We have bevel sanders in both 100 volt and 200 volt models. They come standard with "momentary on" switches however, on/off toggle switches are available for special order. 

Based upon our experiences and suggestions from a great many of our customers, we recently increased the diameter of our sanding discs by 1/8" (1-1/4" discs were taken to 1-3/8", 1-1/2" were taken to 1-5/8" and 1-3/4" were taken to 1-7/8"). The extra 1/16" on each side of the discs are a very improvement over the traditional sizes. For smaller hole sizes we now make 1" diameter discs.

Each diameter disc sizes we make are available in the following grits: 80, 100, 120 & 280.

Butterfly Sanding disc are unique to Innovative Bowling Products. For Larger holes they work very nicely. We have many customer who prefer these over the round ones.

Specialty Products

Our Handle Bowling Balls allow bowlers with physical limitations in their bowling hand to still bowl. They have a handle (much like a suitcase handle) that the hand can be placed under, allowing the bowler to use the hand hold the ball, rather than the fingers via gripping holes. The handle quickly retracts after bowler's release and well before the ball hits the lane. We machine them to accept our handle assembly and install the handle assembly. We use only urethane balls because urethane is strong enough to adapted for this purpose, while polyester balls are not.

Our Handle Bowling Ball can be approved for sanctioned USBC league and tournament play but the bowler must first seek the USBC's approval. According to Michael Spridco, Senior director for USBC Rules and Bonding, league and tournament bowlers having a physical need for use of Innovative's Handle Bowling Ball should forward to his department documentation of need as provided by the bowler's physician. "Any request for the use of a retractable handle bowling ball comes to the Rules department of USBC. The information can be scanned in and emailed to  [email protected] or faxed to 817-385-8260. Once a request is received, we usually have a decision within 24 hours."

Available colors can vary, especially per desired weight. We currently we are using "Mix" from Storm. "Mix" is a urethane ball which holds up very well for this purpose. Do to the need for proper scheduling in our machine shop, we generally schedule the production of these balls twice per year and make large "batches" at a time. Please, give us a call to find what colors are available, in your desired weight, near the time of your purchase.

If you have a urethane or reactive resin ball that you would like us to turn into a handle, we can do that for you. Just keep in mind that we cannot machine your ball until we have handle balls in our manufacturing schedule. It could be as long as 6 months but it just depends on how far out our next scheduled production of handle balls is. We cannot make handle balls from polyester balls.

The space between the under-side of the handle and the outer portion of the ball is sufficient for nearly all hands. Out the hundreds and hundreds of these that we sell we have only encountered a few bowlers whose hands we too large to fit between the handle and the ball.